Food

Forgotten Food of Sub Continent Morel Mushroom in Kashmiri Cuisine

By - Admin May 27, 2018 5 Mins Read
Forgotten Food of Sub Continent  Morel Mushroom in Kashmiri Cuisine
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  [caption id="attachment_1529" align="alignright" width="273"] Chef Sandeep Khatri
Culinary Director & R n D Head Little Chefs[/caption] In the journey of exploring Indian Cuisine in recent years, I tend to understand Physical, Chemical, Botanical nature of ingredients and I tried the simplified version of cooking, as such less yet effective preparation time for all the basic gravies; and the conclusion is �What matters is to understand the characters of all the ingredients you get�. Recently, I was invited to be one of the judges in an event themed �Lost Cuisine of India� organized in the Delhi Public School, Noida.There, I came across with so many variations of different recipes from ancient times to Mughals which is hardly served now a days. However, the arrivals of different Middle Eastern, European and Many other tribes has made India a land with mixed palate accepted to one's taste bud. One perfect example will be pav bhaji, once the factory workers economical diet is the reflection came from pav (bread) baking technique brought by portugese and left over curry from earlier night. A lot of influence in the Maharashtrian Cuisine can also be referred to. The Bombil fish called as Bombay duck; besmirched from the world Bombay Dak meaning Bombay mail. The dry bombil fish used to be so smelly that everyone used to know it came, when coming via container on the Mail Rail, it got the name Bombay duck. [caption id="attachment_1526" align="alignleft" width="356"]Morel Mushroom Morel Mushroom[/caption] One of the regional cuisines, specifically the taste of one regional cuisine has always fascinated me, that is Kashmiri Cuisine. The list of popular dishes like Yakhni, Rogan Josh and Dum Aloo are the advantages Kashmiri Cuisine has, which they got from ancient to Buddhist Monks, then Islam brought lot of their culture to the valley influencing the eating habit as well. The bio diversity of the Indian sub-continent created atmosphere suitable for diversified vegetation and is indeed seen in food culture. For example, the plantation of Saffron, Dry Nuts and Fruits became integral part of life and then the diet. The Mughals loved to spend their summer in Kashmir to escape the heat of the Delhi enhancing their meat to become more rich. The Mughal court had Turkish, Persian, Hindus, Uzbekistani courtiers and soldiers. They all shared their rich culture in eating habits. One of the ingredients I would like to mention here is morel. Morel is a type of mushroom which grows in higher altitude as such in Jammu, Kashmir and Uttarkhand. The Pir, Rishi, and Fakir used to collect morels and use as rich ingredients for nutrition. Even today the Morel Mushroom called KanaGuchhi in local dialect is considered a delicacy and it has to be plucked in hills during the monsoon. The KanaGucchi or Morel may cost 15000 to 20000 Indian Rupees per kg. There is one particular Kashmiri dish prepared using this particular ingredient which was loved by the Mughal emperors, Guchhi Yakhni meaning cooked in rich yoghurt gravy and Pulav made from Gucchi. [caption id="attachment_1528" align="alignright" width="481"]Fried Bombil Fish Fried Bombil Fish[/caption] We as chefs have used Morel a lot especially in sauces to enhance the flavor of meats and to know this in Kashmiri cuisine is a privilege. This dish is getting lost due to the fact of being expensive though being considered as a royal dish. Without a doubt, it is still served in Weddings or special occasions in families of Kashmiri origins. When dried, the earthy smoky flavor gives perfect complement to the dish. This mushroom which comes in the expensive list as truffle may be in lost format or used in other dishes. The Word Yakhni comes from Persian language and is also known as yahni in Turkish and Yahniya in Balkan Language has deep root to the Mughals who origins comes from Uzbekistan. There is lot of Persian influence in Mughal cuisine due to the presence of them in the court. The great Mughal Empower Akbar being a great food lover, he introduced this to Kashmiris during his visit in Kashmir. Yakhni means simply cooking by getting the flavors abstract from the aromatic spices in water and gravy locked in muslin cloth. In the other hand dum cooking gets the flavors in slow cooked fire in a long process, where the meat and protein gets cooked in steam locked in the rice in indirect heat. Yakhni style is more like a broth with rich flavors. Even today, we can see yakhni style cooking in Greek, Turkish and Parsi cooking with aromatic spices and adding yoghurt to make it rich and thick. What makes this dish so special is due to its mention in the Akbar-e-naama.

Guchhi Yakhni Pulav Recipe

Prep Time� � � : 30 minutes Cooking Time : 20 minutes Serves� � � � � �: 6 Ingredients 2 Cups� � � � � � Long Grain Basmati Rice 1 cup� � � � � � �Onion Juliennes 1 Onion,� � � � �cubed � tsp� � � � � � Peppercorns 2� � � � � � � � � Cinnamon Sticks A pinch� � � � � Nutmeg 1 tsp� � � � � � �Coriander Seeds 6 cloves� � � � Garlic � tsp� � � � � �Ginger Paste 1 inch� � � � � Ginger 2 Green� � � �Cardamom 2 Black� � � � Cardamom A pinch� � � � Saffron � cup� � � � � Chopped Tomato 8 pcs� � � � � � Morel Mushroom (de-stemmed and soaked in water) � tsp� � � � � �Kashmiri Mirch 1 Bay� � � � � �Leaf 2-3� � � � � � � Mace 1 tsp� � � � � �Garlic Paste 1 tsp� � � � � �Garam Masala � tsp� � � � � Coriander Powder � tsp� � � � � Cumin Seeds 1� tsp� � � � Fennel Seeds � cup� � � � �Yoghurt [caption id="attachment_1525" align="alignleft" width="297"]Guchhi Yakhni Pulav Guchhi Yakhni Pulav[/caption] Method
  • Take a clean muslin cloth and tie the cubed onion pieces, garlic pods, whole ginger, black cardamom pods, peppercorns, coriander seeds, cloves, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, and mace as in a bouquet garni.
  • In a cooking pot, take water, mushroom and a teaspoon of salt. Turn on the flame. Add to it, the bouquet garni and boil for around 20 minutes or until mushroom gets soft and spongy.
  • Remove the bouquet garni and keep the stock with mushroom pieces aside. The 'yakhni' is ready.
  • In a pan, heat oil and fry julienned onions. Take 1/4 of it and keep aside.
  • In the remaining onions, add cumin seeds, ginger garlic paste, tomatoes, salt, red chilli powder, coriander powder and stir fry for 3 minutes.
  • Add yogurt, garam masala and green cardamom. Cook on a medium high heat till the tomatoes get tender.
  • Add fennel seeds and mushroom pieces to the masala and let it simmer for another 2 minutes.
  • Add this masala to the prepared yakhni (stock) in the cooking pot, turn on the heat and cook the rice uncovered for 5 minutes or till water dries up.
  • Sprinkle fried onions on the rice, add a tbsp. of ghee and seal the pot with foil or Atta dough so that the flavors do not escape.
  • Cook on a low heat for 15 minutes or till the rice is done.
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