Nebbiolo can be a challenge to novice tasters, especially those raised on soft and accessible off-dry wines or on easy drinking �critter� wines from the New World. Beside such wines, Nebbiolo can seem particularly inaccessible. For that matter, many tasters find the rewards provided by patient cellaring of the wine too distant, too cerebral. But for other drinkers-and not, it should be said, only those with great experience-Nebbiolo-based wines represent some of the world�s greatest.
For some, indeed, Nebbiolo stands alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir as a member of the trinity of the world�s finest black grapes.
Primary Growing Areas
Of all of the major black grapes, Nebbiolo is unique for its lack of geographic dispersion. With very few exceptions, Nebbiolo is a resolutely north western Italian grape. Even within this small area, the grape has only found significant success in the Alpine foothills of the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations of Piemonte. And even within these small areas, the grape succeeds best on hillside sites with ideal exposure. There is an oft-repeated romantic story which claims that Nebbiolo is only planted on the hills where the snow melts first in the spring, because these places will provide the longest growing season-precisely what Nebbiolo requires.
Secondary Growing Areas
This is not to say that Nebbiolo cannot be successful elsewhere, but it rarely rises to the heights it achieves in Barolo and Barbaresco. In Piemonte, Nebbiolo is important in the regions of Gattinarra, Ghemme, and Carema. What distinguishes these regions, however-all of which are further north and cooler than Barbaresco and Barolo-is that Nebbiolo rarely achieves the necessary ripeness to allow it to make a pure varietal wine. Instead, it is almost invariably a component-dominant, it�s true-in blends with local varieties. The same is true of Nebbiolo�s expressions in neighboring Lombardy where the grape is found in the Alpine region of Valtellina. Here, for all but the finest wines from the finest vintages, Nebbiolo (locally known as Chiavanasca) also finds itself as a component in a blend.
Not surprisingly, given Nebbiolo�s reputation and potential for producing fine wine, there has been a great deal of experimentation with the grape in the new world. And though there have been good wines produced in Australia, California, Mexico, and South America, the general consensus among professional tasters seems to be that further experimentation is required.
In the Vineyard
The small space devoted to Nebbiolo is testament to its fussiness in the vineyard. Even though its bunches are fairly loose, it is susceptible to both powdery and downy mildews. Though it prefers to grow in temperate, Continental climates, it is early budding and late ripening, making it occasional victim to coulure and frost. Nebbiolo�s late ripening is partly responsible for the grape�s name: with a harvest date extending into October (even November) the bunches are often collected in the midst of the autumn fogs (or nebbia) which blanket the region.
Nebbiolo is also particular about the soils in which it grows, preferring the poor, calcium-rich marls of Piemonte.
In the Winery
Approaches to making wine from Nebbiolo have changed drastically since the late 1960s, and while it is a simplification, there are two dominant approaches, one which may be described as �traditional� and one as �modern�. These are, of course, not absolutes, and the finest winemakers evaluate their approaches with each new batch of fruit in each vintage. Most, for that matter, would reject either the �traditionalist� or �modernist� tag. Much of the difference between the two approaches stems from different attitudes about the place of Nebbiolo-based wines in the global marketplace.
The traditionalist understands Nebbiolo as a grape for the long haul capable of producing a wine today which will be enjoyed by generations down the road. Because of this, their wines tend to emphasize the preservative elements in red wine-tannin and acid. For the traditionalist the grape harvest is earlier, and maceration (both pre- and post-fermentation) longer. The wines are matured in large barrels (not always oak) better to preserve what little color this low-pigment variety is able to offer.
Modernist producers observe that while some traditionally made wine can be truly sublime, many never find the balance their supporters say they will find in maturity. In place of the traditional techniques, modernists substitute a series of techniques designed to make wines which are more accessible in youth, while at the same time preserving their ability to endure a decade or more of cellaring.
The techniques of the modernists include later harvesting so that tannins and pigments are ripe, shorter maceration times and less time in small oak barrels before bottling. The techniques are designed at once to soften Nebbiolo�s preservative structure and to emphasize the already limited primary fruit the variety offers.
In the Glass
Many experienced tasters are able to recognize traditionally made Nebbiolo simply by observing its notoriously orange complexion. Modern approaches to the grape produce darker wines and have introduced some not at all unpleasant complications into the identification of the grape.
The challenge of Nebbiolo, however, often strikes tasters when they nose the wine-especially when it is young. Nebbiolo is anything but a fruity variety and those who love it, love it for reasons other than primary fruit aromas.
What primary fruit there is tends to resemble cherry-sour (or morello) in traditional wines, black in more modern versions. Quite often the fruit has a dried quality as though it were destined for Christmas cake or trail mix. 
For most, it is Nebbiolo�s floral and savory sides which are most appealing. Though muted in young wines, mature Nebbiolo can offer an intense bouquet of truffles, tar, roses and violets.
In the Mouth
Distinctive of color and aroma, Nebbiolo also offers a set of distinctive features on the palate. High in both tannin and acidity, Nebbiolo-based wines can seem challenging to drink. Modern approaches to vinification have successfully muted some of these characteristics, but it should be observed that a varietal Nebbiolo without at least medium to high tannin and acidity is not really typical.
Nebbiolo-based wines are typically full bodied and high in alcohol.
Secondary Growing Areas
This is not to say that Nebbiolo cannot be successful elsewhere, but it rarely rises to the heights it achieves in Barolo and Barbaresco. In Piemonte, Nebbiolo is important in the regions of Gattinarra, Ghemme, and Carema. What distinguishes these regions, however-all of which are further north and cooler than Barbaresco and Barolo-is that Nebbiolo rarely achieves the necessary ripeness to allow it to make a pure varietal wine. Instead, it is almost invariably a component-dominant, it�s true-in blends with local varieties. The same is true of Nebbiolo�s expressions in neighboring Lombardy where the grape is found in the Alpine region of Valtellina. Here, for all but the finest wines from the finest vintages, Nebbiolo (locally known as Chiavanasca) also finds itself as a component in a blend.
Not surprisingly, given Nebbiolo�s reputation and potential for producing fine wine, there has been a great deal of experimentation with the grape in the new world. And though there have been good wines produced in Australia, California, Mexico, and South America, the general consensus among professional tasters seems to be that further experimentation is required.
In the Vineyard
The small space devoted to Nebbiolo is testament to its fussiness in the vineyard. Even though its bunches are fairly loose, it is susceptible to both powdery and downy mildews. Though it prefers to grow in temperate, Continental climates, it is early budding and late ripening, making it occasional victim to coulure and frost. Nebbiolo�s late ripening is partly responsible for the grape�s name: with a harvest date extending into October (even November) the bunches are often collected in the midst of the autumn fogs (or nebbia) which blanket the region.
Nebbiolo is also particular about the soils in which it grows, preferring the poor, calcium-rich marls of Piemonte.
In the Winery
Approaches to making wine from Nebbiolo have changed drastically since the late 1960s, and while it is a simplification, there are two dominant approaches, one which may be described as �traditional� and one as �modern�. These are, of course, not absolutes, and the finest winemakers evaluate their approaches with each new batch of fruit in each vintage. Most, for that matter, would reject either the �traditionalist� or �modernist� tag. Much of the difference between the two approaches stems from different attitudes about the place of Nebbiolo-based wines in the global marketplace.
The traditionalist understands Nebbiolo as a grape for the long haul capable of producing a wine today which will be enjoyed by generations down the road. Because of this, their wines tend to emphasize the preservative elements in red wine-tannin and acid. For the traditionalist the grape harvest is earlier, and maceration (both pre- and post-fermentation) longer. The wines are matured in large barrels (not always oak) better to preserve what little color this low-pigment variety is able to offer.
Modernist producers observe that while some traditionally made wine can be truly sublime, many never find the balance their supporters say they will find in maturity. In place of the traditional techniques, modernists substitute a series of techniques designed to make wines which are more accessible in youth, while at the same time preserving their ability to endure a decade or more of cellaring.
The techniques of the modernists include later harvesting so that tannins and pigments are ripe, shorter maceration times and less time in small oak barrels before bottling. The techniques are designed at once to soften Nebbiolo�s preservative structure and to emphasize the already limited primary fruit the variety offers.
In the Glass
Many experienced tasters are able to recognize traditionally made Nebbiolo simply by observing its notoriously orange complexion. Modern approaches to the grape produce darker wines and have introduced some not at all unpleasant complications into the identification of the grape.
The challenge of Nebbiolo, however, often strikes tasters when they nose the wine-especially when it is young. Nebbiolo is anything but a fruity variety and those who love it, love it for reasons other than primary fruit aromas.
What primary fruit there is tends to resemble cherry-sour (or morello) in traditional wines, black in more modern versions. Quite often the fruit has a dried quality as though it were destined for Christmas cake or trail mix.
For most, it is Nebbiolo�s floral and savory sides which are most appealing. Though muted in young wines, mature Nebbiolo can offer an intense bouquet of truffles, tar, roses and violets.
In the Mouth
Distinctive of color and aroma, Nebbiolo also offers a set of distinctive features on the palate. High in both tannin and acidity, Nebbiolo-based wines can seem challenging to drink. Modern approaches to vinification have successfully muted some of these characteristics, but it should be observed that a varietal Nebbiolo without at least medium to high tannin and acidity is not really typical.
Nebbiolo-based wines are typically full bodied and high in alcohol.
